A recent Wine Enthusiast article focused on the “identity crisis” of Australian wine with the large country’s diversity of terroir and wine styles (especially for Shiraz) regarded as an important reasons for such confusion. The South African Winelands also offer exceptional diversity and I’ve always regarded this as an attribute, but since reading the article, I started to think how such diversity might impact the identity of South African wines – especially in a global context.
Identity is how we see ourselves and how we are defined by others. It is what makes us who we are. Identity is not limited to one particular attribute, but it is a concept that identifies a grouping. Perhaps this is the reason why it is so easy to stereotype! Identity insinuates a singular, though complex, attribute. Diversity does the opposite – it focuses on variety.
When it comes to a country’s wine offering, identity and diversity can be two very interesting concepts. Of all winemaking countries, surely France has the strongest wine identity. For the average wine drinker, French wine might imply a classic style, elegance, quality, the probability of being expensive and that it is a wine that one has to treasure and mature. These ideas are focused on the lifestyle associations of French wine, but not necessarily the intrinsic style identity. The focus on the lifestyle associations is because it is so much easier to understand than the real intricacies of the French wine identity. The reason? Diversity! The identity of a Bordeaux or Burgundy is easier to determine than that of a “French wine” because each area has unique terroir and therefore winemaking techniques and style of wines. Much of the identity of French wine is therefore in its regionality.
I believe the same is true for South Africa. For the average global wine drinker, defining the identity of South African wine when it comes to its style and characteristics might be tricky. Why? Well, perhaps our winemaking history is not as renowned as that of the French and our cultural association with wine might be more recent. But, of course, determining an identity for SA wine might be difficult for the same reason as in France. Winemakers celebrate the unique attributes of their specific pockets of terroir, making a single identity quite the challenge.
This is, however, not only true for France and South Africa, it is also true for Australia and all other winemaking countries. I believe our diversity needs to be part of our identity. Such diversity does not make it easier to describe or sell our wine, but it surely keeps it interesting! Diversity allows us to keep on telling our unique stories and that is what makes wine a beverage that has been the subject of songs and poems, movies and books and why there are wine apps and blogs.
The reason for Australia’s identity trouble, according to the article mentioned in the introduction, is that its wine offering today is more than the wine that sets its identity initially. What made Australian wine famous in the beginning informed a perception and created an expectation of identity, but it wasn’t a complete story. Australia always had different terroir and once their wines reflected their different origins, the original big and bold Shiraz style could not be the country’s identity anymore and perceptions must be challenged. Of course, Australia is more than jammy Shiraz, just as South Africa is much more than easy-drinking Chenin Blanc and France is not all elegant Chablis. We all know, however, that changing perceptions can be quite difficult!
South Africans know both the charm and challenge of diversity. Our country might be smaller than Australia, but with many cultures and 12 official languages, extreme landscapes and the exceptional biodiversity of fauna and flora, we understand that it is hard to find an identity within all the excitement of diversity. Does this imply an identity crisis? I don’t think so.
Diversity in wine is the reason why wine writers return to our vineyards again and again, why we still sell out wine tasting events and run successful wine tasting rooms. Perhaps we should rather embrace our diversity as an intrinsic part of our identity and in 2025, celebrate it with as many diverse glasses of wine as we can pour!