We’ve just returned from Germany after another successful edition of the annual Prowein trade show in Dusseldorf. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve attended the event, but every year I have appreciation for the organisers’ focus on trends and the variety of tastings and talks presented to showcase the latest consumer preferences and trade initiatives. But lately, it felt like trends have stabilised around one or two concepts and are not that trendy anymore!
More than the marketing opportunities it brings, I always appreciate how the fair offers insight into global tendencies, allowing producers to stay up to date with wine styles, packaging design and consumer trends. But what more is there to talk about other than sustainability and the no-and-low category? It feels we have debated these two concepts from all possible angles. Has anything changed in 2024? I found that wellness was still a trend – as it should be! I do think the low-and-no category focus has however shifted from availability to quality and that brings new excitement to the category. Sustainability was also still top of mind (surprise, surprise!), but here I’ve also noticed a shift and a new conversation – and perhaps, concern.
The conservation perspective of sustainability stays very important, demanding responsible and sustainable farming methods and consideration for biodiversity. But as economic pressure increases globally, I feel that there has been a shift towards the importance of economic sustainability. Talking to fellow producers and customers who travelled to Düsseldorf from all over the world, the conversation generally steers towards the challenge of surviving financially and how important, but increasingly difficult, it has become to do business sustainably. Sustainable business practices require us to be responsible in more than our farming, but also in the way we market, price and sell our produce. The consensus is that sustainable businesses that can offer employment, support as well as training and development, will significantly contribute to an economically stable and self-sufficient environment. The focus of sustainability might have shifted. It seems to be more about society and a future for communities and how we support that through responsible and sustainable farming as well as sustainable business practices.
War, Brexit, Covid and inflation all brought lingering challenges to the global economy. Even when you have a market for your product, selling it profitably isn’t as obvious as one would think. We are committed to sustainable farming practices and social sustainability, caring for our land and empowering our employees and communities, but such commitments often come at a cost. If we are struggling to make a profit due to pressured margins, a tough economic environment and financially fragile consumers, how do we stay true to our commitments in the long term?
Sustainability only really works when it is a holistic process. I embrace the concept and we’ve been living the message for many years, but that doesn’t make one blind to the challenges. Even while I am still basking in the energy of what I believe is the annual highlight on the wine trade calendar, combined with my own natural optimism, there’s no denying that care and consideration are required in the way we approach all aspects of the wine business if we want sustainability to be a reality and not just a trend.